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The glass piece on the sensor is probably just for its protection.
The filter might be inside the tube holding all the lens, or even on one of them as a coating, not a separate element. If you look hold the lens against a strong light source, like a window and see that the reflection in the lens has an orange-red hue, it might mean that the IR filter is put directly on the lens - just like in labtec (and logitech too i think) cameras. Removing it might be a bit hard, but not impossible, look here: http://freetrack.online.fr/forum/index.php?showtopic=329 It seems to me that the silver part of the lens casing is glued to the black part, so you might try opening it there, instead of cutting it - if it's been put together somehow, then there must be a way to take it apart without such measures as cutting  Just make sure that you don't lose any of the lens and remember how to put them back when you open it up. To check where the filter was in my camera, i tried a experiment: Try connecting the camera to the computer with its lens on, and putting an object illuminated by a strong both visible and IR light source, like a halogen lamp. If you then put a visible light filter in front of it (two layers of black parts of photographic film will be ok), the picture should be totally dark, since both IR and visible light are now mostly filtered out. If its not, make sure that the lamp isn't shining directly into the camera. Now, remove the lens, leaving the camera in the same place, in front of the illuminated object. Of course you won't see any details now, but the picture will be bright. Now cover the sensor with the visible light filter - if the picture doesn't go very dark, it means that the IR light didn't get filtered out, so the filter is in the lens. If the picture goes totally dark, then the filter seems to be on the sensor cover. Good luck. |
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Deimos, how can I thank you for your excelent advice????
Well, I made a differential diagnose and realise that the ir filter is placed in the lens cilinder (and the tiny glass ontop of the cmos is only for mechanical protection, does not filter any ir). Crossing my fingers, and with a bit of luck I removed the ir filter. maybe someone will came across the same problem, so here is a little detail: - first, I separate the black tube (contains the lens) from the silver part of the lens casing. Those were joined with some glue, so I force them a little. - next, the black cilinder (by the way this one is made from alluminium painted black). So, this "cilinder" is made from two parts, one screwed into the other, but also glued, this mean that one can not simply unscrew them. With a sharp tool ( eg. a knife ) and sand paper I dislocate the glue, ant then I was able to unscrew them. This way, the first lens is exposed. - under the first lens (from exterior to interior) lay the ir filter, which is a thin square piece of glass, with an orange-red hue. Remove it at once (very easy to remove, it is holded in place only by the first lens, who is on top of it.) - reassemble the camera. I put a piece of magnetic disk (from a floppy) in front of the objective, and now only seeing the ir leds. In freetrack works like a charm, w. 28 constant fps and 0-9 jitter. It has only one drawback: although I can manually set up the exposure to zero, it won't remember the setting next time, so every time I use freetrack I had to adjust the exposure slider. Otherwise, highly recomnded, for it price. Thank you Deimos and tristan68 for your kind support. Pictures:    |
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Always glad to help
 Btw, how about eighter making this tread sticky, or creating a new IR conversion instruction tread for this cam, and making that one sticky? Having few IR conversion guides here, in this forum will surely help other - current and potential Freetrack users. |
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WTG volans ! well done
@deimos : Thanks for your info, help is much appreciated  About your suggestion to create a few conversion guides , we're working on it  stay tuned cya |
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