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Steph #16 30/10/2013 - 18h38

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Both works well, cap version is a little bit more accurate and easier to set up imho, because of his simple geometric construction.
I use a clip because it can be cliped on and of the headset.
onyxius #17 31/10/2013 - 19h52

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Ok Question Guys,
 I just made a 3 point clip using these dimentions here.
Posted Image
Posted Image
And using these resistors below in the link.
RadioShack

For some reason its not lighting the IR LED's.  I can stick a regular LED in there and it work but not the 3 IR LED's, any ideas?  I didnt solder to close to the bulbs and i made sure my resistors are soldered the same direction as the pic above.

I'm also using 2x 1.5v AA batteries. "Rayovac Alkaline

I just tested 1 LED bypassing the resistor and it lit up, so is it possible the resistors are bad?
Edited by onyxius on 31/10/2013 at 22h42.
onyxius #18 31/10/2013 - 22h46

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Nevermind I'm an idiot that is 22k as in 22 thousand instead of 22, holy crap unbelievable :(

That shouldnt harm the LED's right since its a higher resistor, basically i would think that it wouldnt even let the power go out the other end right?  so my LED's are safe? ...should be.

So Now!!

With the setup above i have now picked up the 10-Ohm Resistors 1/4 wat 5% tollerance.  Does it matter if i use rechargeable batteries? What harm will come if i use regular batteries?
Edited by onyxius on 02/11/2013 at 05h29.
onyxius #19 03/11/2013 - 16h53

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Anybody?
Stormrider #20 03/11/2013 - 19h02

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Does it matter if i use rechargeable batteries? What harm will come if i use regular batteries?



the difference is 0,6V.Rechargeable batteries have (most of the time) 1,2 Volt and normal batteries have 1,5Volt.If you calculated the resistor value for normal batteries your leds will become less bright with rechargeable batteries.

For a stable voltage I prefer usb-power source.But I can understand that people don't like to be atached to a wire.I use a back-up battery wit usb-ports.I attached it to the back of my cap.So It is "wireless"

Correct me if Iam wrong, you want to make the cap-model and the clip model.The cap-model you have got it working, why don't you just use the same wiring for the clip-model?

This is my powersource.
Posted Image
onyxius #21 05/11/2013 - 17h35

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Thank you

Yea i have the cap model which is usb and works pretty good, but I don't always want to wear a hat, so i made a clip model attached to my headphoens, and wired it to a AA battery pack with power switch.  I just wanted to know if there would be much difference in rechargeable and regular batteries.  Right now the LED's are pretty bright i can actually se it light up with what i have now.

With that battery pack you have, does it not drain the battery faster then just using AA batteries?

And at this point i would have to either undo it and put different resistors on or just make a new one.
Edited by onyxius on 05/11/2013 at 17h37.
mrdobo #22 06/11/2013 - 18h33

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Well I completed my hat/solder job exactly as Habitué's easy build guide was explained, but I can't seem to get FreeTrack to pick up on the LED sources unless I'm extremely close to the camera, or the gain/contrast is turned up so high that other things in the room start to be visible.

It's odd, but it just feels like the IR LEDs are too dim or something. Doesn't make sense... I built exactly as the guide laid out. Granted that was my first solder job, so I'm somewhat suspicious that maybe I gooped too much solder on a connection or something, and maybe it's making the signal weak? I've messed with the damn program for hours now!

Very frustrating...
Stormrider #23 06/11/2013 - 19h46

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Reply to onyxius,

Right now the LED's are pretty bright i can actually se it light up with what i have now.

If this is with regular batteries, then just try it with rechargeables.If the leds are not bright enough and you want to stay on rechargeables you have to change the resistor value.

That battery-pack of mine is normaly used for charging a smartphone.Till it is empty it has a steady 5 volt output.With batteries the voltage drops when the are used.
My battery pack contains a li-ion accu of 1800mA, I can play for ages before I have to charge it.
onyxius #24 09/11/2013 - 21h09

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The batteries i'm using now are just rechargeable as in the build suggestion, i havent used regular ones as i dont want to tear anything up.

I may have to make another clip and buy that battery pack hehe, mine is actually working really good night now, just worried that at how bright the led's are that they will burn out in no time.
Stormrider #25 09/11/2013 - 22h48

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if you built the clipmodel with 2xAA rechargeable  batterypack, with leds paralel with only one resistor of 10 ohm, you have a currentflow of 90mA. Driven those leds on almost the max will limit there lifetime and your batteries wil run empty rather fast.
If you should use now regular batteries yuo will destroy your leds.You will get a currentflow of 150mA.
In this case I would change the setup from paralel to serial and use usb-power and look for a battery-pack I have.
onyxius #26 11/11/2013 - 19h58

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hmmm ok, no i'm running a resistor with every led running 2xrechargeable batteries.  ill just keep it that way for now as it really seems to work well.  Bright.. but well.

Thanks guys.
dipsky38 #27 01/07/2014 - 18h32

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onyxius @ 31/10/2013 - 20h52 a dit:

Ok Question Guys,
 I just made a 3 point clip using these dimentions here.
Posted Image
SpoilerPosted Image
And using these resistors below in the link.
RadioShack

For some reason its not lighting the IR LED's.  I can stick a regular LED in there and it work but not the 3 IR LED's, any ideas?  I didnt solder to close to the bulbs and i made sure my resistors are soldered the same direction as the pic above.

I'm also using 2x 1.5v AA batteries. "Rayovac Alkaline

I just tested 1 LED bypassing the resistor and it lit up, so is it possible the resistors are bad?


can anyone tell me, as in the pic that i quote, in mm,cm or what?
sorry i don't know exactly   :)
Stormrider #28 01/07/2014 - 20h30

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it is in mm.60.000 should be read as 6o mm or 6 cm.If you make a good model you won't have problem with the dots melting together.
Normally it should be enough to move your head 20 degrees to the left or right, up or down to see completely left/right/behind, up/down.Without that melting of the dots together(= bad tracking)
It is also very importent to fill in the right dimensions of you model at the model tab.
Like this: http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=3959&page=1#19245
Maybe you can use these dimensions for you model?

The size for the heatshrink depends on what you use to made your model of.I would take the size which you can easely put over your model and heat it and it will shrink to the size of your model.
Edited by Stormrider on 01/07/2014 at 20h32.

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