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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > set up with osram infra red...

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francesco-cristiani #1 27/04/2010 - 23h35

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this is my first project so I prefer to have a confirmation before to give away all my fortunes.... :p
my idea is to do 3 led cap:

this are the led I would like to buy, in the same page You can also find the datasheet...

I tried to use the set up wizard tool, but I don't understand too much from it:
if I use a 9v battery with three 1.3v led of 100mA the results are

RESISTOR COUNT= 1 resistor(s) needed for the complete kit
RESISTOR THEORICAL VALUE=     51 Ohms
RESISTOR CHOICE= E24 SERIES
Resistor value= 51 Ohms 5%

is it right the 9v alimentation or there is a better solution for the led I chose?
and what about the resistence?

thanks to everybody
buccaneer #2 29/04/2010 - 08h14

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Values look correct. But i wouldn't aim to 100mA (which is actually max forward current). If you have webcam with removed IR filter (or WiiMote) you will be ok with 40-70% of max forward current. If you still want to have 100mA you should get 51Ohms resistor with power rating > 1/2W (power dissipated on that resistor gonna be ~ 510mW=0.51W).

IMHO there is no much sense to use batteries as power source, i don't see much mobility involved with using FT (at least using headphone clip, when you are already limited with 1.5-5 m of h-phone cable). And battery changes will happen about every 5-10hrs of use(depends on batt charge volume). I'd rather recommend to find cheap cellphone recharger, which has output voltage > 4V (in your case 3.9v = 3 x 1.3Vled). Measure the voltage of charger with multimeter (actual value may vary from printed one), and calculate new value of resistor for chosen current.
Hope it will help
francesco-cristiani #3 29/04/2010 - 16h37

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you're right, 100mA is the max forward current value... now I planned a new system with 50mA per led, as I've seen from other's projects... but since I had already considered the option of using a phone charger as source, and now you proposed it too, I'm really intentioned to change the plan and to do the circuit using a phone charger.... I'll let you know....

thanks for your precious help and advice,,, bye, for now

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

my sister gave me her old-phone's charger:

input: 100-240V 50-60Hz 0.15A
output: 5.0V 0.7A (there's the symbol of a dash with three points below)

if I've understood well I should check the precise voltage with a multimeter because it could be a little different by the one reported (5.0V)... sorry but I'm a donkey in electronics.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

on the setup wizard if I use "5V" and "Unregulated power supply" options the result warns me that the calculation of the resistance has already been done applying a voltage increment of the 30% (as if my adaptor supplies 6.5V)... have I to check anyway with a multimeter or I can trust the result, because I don't have a multimeter and in order to check I should go to someone who has it..

thank you
Edited by francesco-cristiani on 29/04/2010 at 18h38.
Falstar #4 29/04/2010 - 18h52

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The dash with 3 dots under it, is the DC or Direct Current symbol.

Sometimes, but very rarely you'll see a sine wave for AC or Alternating Current after the Voltage.

120 V AC
5.0  V DC
francesco-cristiani #5 29/04/2010 - 19h36

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grazie falstar... you've augmented my knowledge ;)
buccaneer #6 29/04/2010 - 20h18

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francesco-cristiani @ 29/04/2010 - 16h37 a dit:


...
on the setup wizard if I use "5V" and "Unregulated power supply" options the result warns me that the calculation of the resistance has already been done applying a voltage increment of the 30% (as if my adaptor supplies 6.5V)... have I to check anyway with a multimeter or I can trust the result, because I don't have a multimeter and in order to check I should go to someone who has it...



When you have the actual voltage of your adaptor you can use wizard with "regulated" option. With "unregulated" +30% imho wizard just gives "safe" recommendation  and you won't fry your circuit instantly.

BTW because your LEDs have spheric shaped tip (and as the result the light beam is rather focused) you will need to file LEDs flat. Just be careful not to cut thin wire between electrodes (yellow one on the pic)
Posted Image
francesco-cristiani #7 29/04/2010 - 21h49

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ok... I'll try as soon as I'll get the LEDs and the vx1000 (which are still travelling from UK to me in Italy)...

thanks to everyone, and if someone has something to add, will be welcome
francesco-cristiani #8 30/04/2010 - 17h52

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well, I borrow the multimeter from my school lab and I've measured the voltage in output of the phone charger: are exactly 5.0 volt (picture below)
A>Posted Image

now I have a question... watch how I've connected the red and the black leads to the multimeter (fig.B) and to the wires of the phone charger (fig.C): which is the positive pole and which is the negative one? wire1....??wire2....?? because I really have no idea!!!
B>Posted Image    C>Posted Image

one last thing, the set up wizard gave me this values:
LED ASSEMBLY..............................serial assembly
RESISTOR COUNT..........................1
RESISTOR VALUE...........................22 Ohms 5%
DISSIPATED VALUE........................0.06 Watts
TOTAL CURRENT IN ASSEMBLY.........50 mA

I think data are ok, aren't them?

thanks everybody for the support!
Edited by francesco-cristiani on 30/04/2010 at 18h04.
buccaneer #9 30/04/2010 - 19h48

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It seems that white wire is "+", black one is "-".
But i might be wrong. Actually you can test with your LED circuit assembled.
With wrong polarity LEDs just won't light (no harm will be done). When polarity is right - you can see them shine with digital camera (mobile phone camera).
francesco-cristiani #10 30/04/2010 - 22h50

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ok, when I'll get the led I'll check...
thank you for now

ps: from tomorrow to wednesday I'll be in medugorje B) so I won't be able to reply anymore... sorry bye
francesco-cristiani #11 09/05/2010 - 21h56

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I'm back, here are the photos of the finished project...

WEBCAM....................Microsoft VX-1000 (IR filter removed and replaced with floppy)
POWER SUPPLY...........5 volt from a unused phone charger
LED..........................1.3 volt (working at 50mA)
RESISTOR..................22 ohm (it's so stale that the tolerance is neither shown on it, but I don't think this is a problem)

everything seems to work well, but as far as the software I've ran into two problems:

1) even setting a medium death zone for all the six axes, there is a continuous strong trembling...

2) fps for Flight Simulator X are 45/50, but freetrack's ones are to the utmost 15...
this second problem might be due to my hardware, which is pathetic:
CPU.................AMD 3400+ (good frequency... but is only 1 core)
RAM.................3GB
VIDEO..............GeForce 6600GT
setting all the parameters to the minimum, I can use FSX with 40fps, but free track continues to jerk. when I open free track alone, I reach 30fsp, but when I start FSX the fps crash to 15 or lower! I read a lot of topics about this probem but I concluded nothing. Here is my camera settings:
Posted Image

some ideas for the trembling and the low fps... is it the scanty hardware the cause of these problems?

Thanks
buccaneer #12 10/05/2010 - 07h05

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Hi
First thing - you should disable auto-exposure for your vx-1000
(see Software FAQ).

About trembling - try to apply those recommendations i did some time ago in other threads
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2312&page=1#13766
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2381&page=1#13731
francesco-cristiani #13 11/05/2010 - 16h46

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ok, I disabled the auto exposure and now works fine, but the exposure value now is set to 24 and even if I set it to 0 and I save, when I enter again in the webcam settings it is set always to 24
pinetto #14 11/05/2010 - 18h23

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Ciao Francesco, sei italiano?
Ho un po di problemi con i led, e soprattutto con l'inglese  :D
Ho realizzato il clip con i 3 led ir, comprati in un negozio di elettronica qui nel mio paese, ma non ho idea delle caratteristiche.
Come cam ho usato il wiimote, e funziona tutto molto bene, l'unico problema è che ho un JPS al di sopra dei 80-90.....sai dirmi da che dipende, e nel caso come risolvere il problema....
A causa di questo JPS la "ripresa" è molto instabile e il gioco ne risente molto.
francesco-cristiani #15 11/05/2010 - 22h30

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----------------T-H-I-S----I-S----F-O-R----P-I-N-E-T-T-O----O-N-L-Y--------------------------------
ciao pinetto, io non sono molto pratico purtroppo, ho cercato un pò nel forum ma da quanto ho capito col wiimote i jps non scendono sotto ad una certa soglia... comunque 80/90 sono troppi.... posso rigirare la domanda agli altri...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I can state that my project is finished, all seems to work well.... so THANKS to everybody who helped me during the construction.

now there's pinetto here who needs some help as to setting up well his wiimote.... he says that his jps are too high (80/90) and whilst playing the view is very disturbed... I've already tried to search on the forum, but I didn't find a lot.... is there someone who has had experience with wiimote and know how to solve this problem?

thanks
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