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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Any way to build a clip or cap without soldering ?

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RSS >  Any way to build a clip or cap without soldering ?
Scotchy49 #1 15/08/2008 - 20h19

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Hi !

I currently have no soldering gun, so is it possible to create a cap or clip without one ?

I ain't able to pay $150 just to build a track clip, I would rather buy TrackIR :)

I guess this question has already been asked :p

I tried FreeTrack with one LED glued on a hat and it worked well so I am thinking about building a 3 point clip but can't afford a soldering gun :\

Also, an other question, what are the forward voltage and forward current of the SFH485P ? These are the one I want to buy.

Also, I have a 5V / 800mA battery charger, and on the wizard it says I need 47Ohms/5% if I set 3V and 80mA as forward voltage/current. Where can I buy those ?
tristan68 #2 15/08/2008 - 22h07

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Hello scotchy49

Well, it works far better if you solder parts together.....  :dry:

You can still try conductive glue, but i can't guarantee the result , and the price is almost the same.

About the price :

150$ ???  :blink:
a soldering gun ???  :blink:  :blink:

What about just a nice little soldering iron ?

You can find 20 to 40w soldering irons for about 9$....

Look at your local radio shack.


About the SFH485P :

the forward voltage is 1.5V and the max recommended current is 75mA

you'll need 1 x 27ohms resistor, using a serial setup.

Same adress as the soldering iron, look for your local radio shack, electronics shop or TV repair shop.



Other solution :
ask your local TV repair shop if they can solder the setup for you. It's only a 5 minutes job for them......

cya
ratoa #3 15/08/2008 - 22h26

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$150?????

Do yourself a favor and go to Radio Shack

I did my point model with Radio Shack Parts and a Kmart baseball cap

I ran into problems with NAN errors....for 2 weeks I tough it was the IR Leds
that I got from RS in the end my problem was that I like to bent the cap visor
and that made the 2 botton leds too close together

RS parts $10.00
Baseball cap $5.50
Edited by ratoa on 15/08/2008 at 22h30.
Scotchy49 #4 15/08/2008 - 23h10

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First of all, thanks for your answers =)

Well, I didn't know there ere soldering irons for 10$. I first looked up on the website of my local merchant and all there was were between 150 and 400$ irons or guns.

I will look for it on the internet.

Thanks !
Edited by Scotchy49 on 16/08/2008 at 06h24.
tristan68 #5 16/08/2008 - 08h09

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WOW

your local merchant sells gold plated soldering irons  :p
Even a complete low voltage soldering station doesn't cost this price.



ok for your search , keep us informed

cya
Laidback #6 16/08/2008 - 13h43

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Believe it or not, I'm just using good old fasion black tape.  I didn't know how to use a soldering gun and someone at Radio Shack showed me this soldering tape that all you had to do was use a lighter to melt the tape down, but I kept burning myself.  So I just went ahead and used black tape and it works great.  I've had my cap for a month now and no issues at all.  I just made sure I wrapped the wires around real good then wrapped the tape around the connections tightly and viola!!.
Scotchy49 #7 16/08/2008 - 18h31

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Ok I bought a soldering iron, found it for $10.

I will probably use a power supply which has the following output: 3,7V=/355mA/1,3VA

And on the wizard I get this picture:

http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/led3p.gif

And that I need 3 resistors of 47Ohms 5% with 75mA as forward current. and 1.5v as forward voltage. Are these recommanded settings for the SFH485P ?

Thanks all :)
Edited by Scotchy49 on 16/08/2008 at 18h49.
tristan68 #8 16/08/2008 - 20h14

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Correct.  :)

This is the value to use with your power adapter.

Since you want to drive your leds at max power , i suppose you're working with a stock webcam (unmodded).

If you're working with an IR modded webcam 75mA is too much for SFH485P ( they're gonna be too bright) . With Ir modded webcam , drive your SFH485P s at about 25mA.

cya
Scotchy49 #9 16/08/2008 - 20h23

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Thanks !

An other question, if I remove the IR filter, would it affect the webcam's video quality in video messaging ?

I think about removing it, if I can (it is a Logitech QuickCam Messenger,  this one). and put the LEDs at 25mA and use an old floppy disk, but I would like to be able to use the webcam later for video messaging.
MIKEYMC #10 16/08/2008 - 20h45

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Yes all it will see is IR light. Kind of black and white.
Scotchy49 #11 16/08/2008 - 22h12

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And if I don't remove the IR filter, how much power would be ok with the SFH485P ? :\
Edited by Scotchy49 on 16/08/2008 at 22h12.
tristan68 #12 16/08/2008 - 23h36

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SFH485P at 50 to 75mA work fine with an unmodded webcam
usr #13 19/08/2008 - 18h03

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these things are an extremely practical alternative to soldering for many applications. You can cut them for any number of contacts you need, so for example in pairs for holding the LEDs, and maybe a longer strip for connecting resistors etc. (that link is not a vendor suggestion, i just took the first hit from google image search that had an acceptable picture and an english version of the text).

just don't tighten the screws too hard, because you weaken the LED leads mechanically if you press them too flat  :D
Scotchy49 #14 27/08/2008 - 09h06

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Ok.

I finally made my clip after receiving my SFH485Ps. I run them at 70mA (3.7V charger with 3x47ohm resistors)  and they light up. I can see them on my cam but if I put the exposure too low they disappear. I have very much ambiant light but no photo negatives nor old floppy disk.

Edit: I finally decided to give up and remove the IR filter. But now I have 70mA SFH485Ps with a cam that doesn't have an IR filter, lol !

Edit2: I am trying to get it to work but whenever I move my head up or down the leds fade away, with 70mA and with a modded cam. There is lots of light here so I still have to set the Exposure quite low. I will try again tonight and see what happens.
Edited by Scotchy49 on 27/08/2008 at 10h57.
Gnomie #15 27/08/2008 - 13h33

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I don't know these LEDs, but I do know that some LEDs need to be sanded down (roughened on the surface) to emit light in all directions. Otherwise they will only be detectable when you're looking straight ahead because of the narrow "cone of light".
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