> Are These Parts Good?, First time doing circuitry
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cmasupra |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 02/08/2013
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Hello, everyone. After weeks of research, I think I have components that should work together for a head tracking device. However, since this is my first time doing any circuitry, I would like opinions on whether you guys think this is a good setup. I am building a 3 LED headset device.
Webcam:
Logitech Quickcam Communicate Deluxe (IR filter NOT removed).
I read on the forums here that someone with the Quickcam Communicate STX (similar to the Deluxe) was able to use IR LEDs without removing the camera's IR filter, so I'm hoping to have the same luck. I have tested it with a TV remote, and the light was visible; not too bright, but visible.
LEDs:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/SFH-485-P/?qs=K5ta8V%252bWhtaMgyKjFkJPvw==
3 of the famous SFH485Ps.
5mm
1.5V (1.8V max) each
100mA max, but I intend to run them at ~80mA
40 degree half viewing angle (80 total)
Resistor:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DCT52R5R90F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG3EzrPz99APh181CAn9I8l0%3d
1 5.9Ohm 1/4Watt resistor. I'm going to put the LEDs in series, so only 1 is needed. If my math is correct, that should put the LEDs at 84mA of current.
Power:
I'm going to use mini USB for power, so I have 3 things related to that:
1) 1 mini USB solder connector:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/500075-1517/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252bykzAp4yt8IxVbhvdLSjXj1%2fM%3d
2) 1 USB to mini USB adapter to plug directly into my computer:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Connector-2-0-A-Male-to-Mini-B-5-Pin-Male-USB-Adapter-/390599798142?pt=US_USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item5af18fed7e
3) 1 PTC with an iHold of 150mA, an iTrip of 300mA, and a resistance of 17Ohms. I assume it'll only have resistance when it start heating up past 150mA, correct?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/TRF600-150-B-05/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt8Ji9PfVTQzAHb%2fx4wyy57%252bojw1FeirUM%3d
The idea behind the USB power setup is that I'll plug the mini USB adapter into my USB port on my computer. The mini USB side of the adapter will plug into the mini USB solder connector. I'll then have long wires coming out of the back of the mini USB solder connector going to my headset LED device.
Wire:
I bought a 100 ft roll of 22 Guage black solid wire.
Solder:
I bought 22 Guage solder. I already have a soldering iron. |
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Steph |
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Hi,
1. Ok for LEDs and resistor.
2. Why don't using a simple standard type A USB male connector instead of the mini USB + adapter combination?
3. I always recommend to use a USB Power adapter (doesn't cost a world, starting from 8€). when you are not 100% sure what you do.
A wrong wired circuit can damage your motherboard even with PTC-fuse.
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cmasupra |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 22
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I actually hadn't thought of using a male USB Type-A solder connector. I have found one at the link below, but it looks like it would be hard to take out of the USB port since it's so short. I could be wrong, though, since it's hard to guage size on the internet.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/48037-1000/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk4muClrMOMyxzBIQy1aH%252bC4%3d
As for the USB power adapter, I have one that came with the first iPhone. It outputs 1A at 5V. I do plan to do my initial testing on that, but I'll use my computer's USB ports once I know my device is working.
For a side question, if my device were to short circuit my computer's USB port, wouldn't it also short circuit with a USB wall mount, thus damaging the house's power in some way? |
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dewey1 |
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cmasupra |
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What would I do with those? I already have the wall adapter, and I don't need iPhone cables.
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Stormrider |
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For a side question, if my device were to short circuit my computer's USB port, wouldn't it also short circuit with a USB wall mount, thus damaging the house's power in some way?
most adapter have a sort of short circuit protection, your house has fuses for it.Damaging the housepower?No that will not happen.In the worst case you blow up a fuse.
But if you should have a short circuit in your setup it is easier to find an other wall adapter then to change you motherboard. 
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dewey1 |
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cmasupra @ 03/08/2013 - 07h24 a dit: What would I do with those? I already have the wall adapter, and I don't need iPhone cables.
Use the cables by cutting the Iphone end off and the result is a USB plug and cable for wiring to the LEDS!
All this will be easier than the connector you are referring to!
Lets see, $1.15, shipping price, wire price, assembly time and chance for error!
With my recommendation you will have spares that you could sell to friends.
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cmasupra |
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Stormrider @ 03/08/2013 - 11h34 a dit: most adapter have a sort of short circuit protection, your house has fuses for it.Damaging the housepower?No that will not happen.In the worst case you blow up a fuse.
But if you should have a short circuit in your setup it is easier to find an other wall adapter then to change you motherboard.
Ah. I never realized the house had fuses even though I have heard of blowing fuses multiple times.
dewey1 @ 03/08/2013 - 13h33 a dit: Use the cables by cutting the Iphone end off and the result is a USB plug and cable for wiring to the LEDS!
All this will be easier than the connector you are referring to!
Lets see, $1.15, shipping price, wire price, assembly time and chance for error!
With my recommendation you will have spares that you could sell to friends.
While you have a good idea, I don't know if I could do that. I'm one of those people who don't like to destroy perfectly good objects and change their purpose.
Another thing I'm going for is a lightweight cable. I have iPhone cables and they are all heavier than the same length of solder cable would be. It's not much, but I'd like to make it as light as possible so I know my LED device won't move around on my headset. I'm clamping it on using one of those large office clips. I have tested it, and it was very hard to move the device around, but I would just feel safer with a lighter cable.
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cmasupra |
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Can anyone tell me if my PTC fuse is appropriate or if one with different iHold and iTrip values would be better? I would like to use a PTC fuse even though I'm going to use a wall adapter, as suggested.
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dewey1 |
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Rememember the KISS principle?
You are making this more complicated than it needs to be.
Just use a USB power adapter and the Male Type A USB cable and do not plug into a PC for power.
Weight is not a problem if you mount the cable to the headset properly unless your using welding cable for wiring! 
The connector you linked to is for mounting to a circuit board (SMT=SurfaceMount). It has no provision for wire/cable strain relief.
My 45 years of Electronics experience is trying to help you.
If you doubt my suggestions and recommendations then do it your way and do not complain about all the unforseen problems that you will have.
There is a lot you do not comprehend about "it's just wire" versus flexible USB cable wire. In other words, weight is a non factor compared to longevity due to flexing of the cable.
Compare solid wire to stranded wire in a flexing situation. Which will break first? |
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cmasupra |
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I wasn't doubting your advice. I was just mentioning things that most people wouldn't take into consideration when building this but I take into consideration.
I didn't know the functional difference between solid and stranded wire. However, I have looked it up and found out that stranded wire is better when the wire is going to be bent/moved many times. I assume most USB cables use stranded wire then?
What if I were to use stranded wire to go from the mini-USB solder connector to the LED device? That would solve both the weight and durability issues for the wire, right?
As for the mini-USB solder connector, can the solder joint not handle the load of the wire? What if I were to wrap it in electrical tape?
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dewey1 |
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Quit coming up with such half assed ideas and just get a real USB cable.
This is my last response to you because you are not listening!
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bobtch |
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edit: made a new topic. nvm
Edited by bobtch on 11/08/2013 at 19h51. |
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cmasupra |
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I'm not listening? I'm taking your advice and trying to come up with something that addresses all the issues you're telling me about while still having the features I'm looking for. What you're doing is telling me "My way or the highway". You have an idea that would work for most people and trying to force it on me. I would say you're not listening.
I know you want to make the device simple, but I'm willing to do a lot more work in order to have a device that is a little bit better for me. Simplicity is not my thing unless a simple device actually gives me everything looking for. That's not the case most of the time.
Now, can anyone answer my PTC fuse question? I am wondering if I picked a good one of if a different one with different iHold and iTrip values would be better. I am going to use a wall adapter, as suggested, but I would still like to have a PTC fuse because there's not really any harm in having one for safety.
Also, if anyone has any other suggestions for me to address any issues, I'm listening. I just might not take the suggestion directly but instead come up with a "complicated" workaround that would still solve the issue and make the device better for me.
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Stormrider |
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3) 1 PTC with an iHold of 150mA, an iTrip of 300mA, and a resistance of 17Ohms. I assume it'll only have resistance when it start heating up past 150mA, correct?
I can't give you an answer on it because I don't know it for sure.I think that if you email or phone the shop where you want to order, they can tell you if it is the right one for you.
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