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gaedious #106 11/11/2009 - 11h01

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Wow.. this is simply brilliant idea! Simple yet effective. I wonder why I would have never thought of using velcro.  :pinch:
redkite #107 26/11/2009 - 10h30

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Hi
Great info here, I am planning on building one of these led sets, Just observing some are arranged in a single plane vertically like this one and others as a 3d triangle 90 deg to this one.  Do both arrangements work equally as well?

Thanks
Wupjak #108 01/12/2009 - 00h49

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Put this together yesterday, my first build.  Powered by 2 AAAs, on/off switch, attaches to my headset with velcro.  Works brilliantly with Arma 2.

Thanks for the excellent product and to this forum for all of the resources and help.

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Edited - photo too large.
Edited by Wupjak on 01/12/2009 at 00h56.
Seeadler #109 25/12/2009 - 00h55

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My design is built from a broken headlamp

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it works with battery and 25mA or 50mA and USB (not ready build)
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Joda #110 25/12/2009 - 02h03

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Wupjak @ 01/12/2009 - 01h49 a dit:

Put this together yesterday, my first build.  Powered by 2 AAAs, on/off switch, attaches to my headset with velcro.  Works brilliantly with Arma 2.

Thanks for the excellent product and to this forum for all of the resources and help.

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Edited - photo too large.



That's just simplistic, stylish and beautiful. What is that basic black structure in which the leds are attached? A straw, metal pipe or what?
Falcon #111 27/12/2009 - 18h45

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Hello guys,
I would like to show you my new tracking headset. I first expressed the idea in  benmeijer's  "Easy build setup thread" as alternative.

Data and scheme of the build:
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I use 4 cells to get serial circuit using only 30mA total compared to 90mA of same parallel circuit. That is 1/3 of consumption or 3 time longer life, but using 2 times more cells. In the end it should be 3/2 as effective as 2 cell parallel circuit per cell in theory. It also simplifies the soldering.

Design of low-weight headset:
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Creating case from "Modurit" modelling plastic:
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More finished case (not final though, need more space for wires):
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After soldering the electric stuff (including proof it works):
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Final tracking device (used velcro to secure pieces together, so LEDs can go on audio-headset too, if needed):
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At last pic it seems it shine too weak, but it must be because of strong filter in my camera. In modded webcam (floppy instead of IR filter), its shining quite a lot at only 30mA.

Can't wait for new VX-1000 to test it at its full potential.  :dev:
Edited by Falcon on 27/12/2009 at 18h57.
ironic #112 29/12/2009 - 15h07

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Hello freetrackers
I've worked for 2weeks and 2hours a day found these solutions you can use if you like :) thank you freetrack!
My point model designs

First K shaped lefty one built by default led center dimensions (30 40 70 80)
Other top mounted one's dimensions led center dimensions (100 100 50)
All dimensions for both real led assembly model and software in milimeters.
ironic #113 29/12/2009 - 15h12

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sorry for the wrong link
Point models
benmeijer #114 29/12/2009 - 23h22

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:lol: Perfect design Ironic, well done .... want to see pic's of the production model!
benmeijer #115 29/12/2009 - 23h29

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Falcon @ 27/12/2009 - 19h45 a dit:

At last pic it seems it shine too weak, but it must be because of strong filter in my camera. In modded webcam (floppy instead of IR filter), its shining quite a lot at only 30mA.



Nice build Falcon, did you include your "variable brightness upgrade" in your build ?
Sillz #116 30/12/2009 - 14h06

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Headset (analog 5.1) Sharkoon Majestic

3point clip
Constructed with two cases of "stabilo fine liner" (removed the end and write part for afterthought)


The batterie case is connected to the ir led´s with a powercable (include a pc-fancable-connector installed to elarge the powercable for future
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Edited by Sillz on 30/12/2009 at 14h07.
Wupjak #117 30/12/2009 - 20h55

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Joda @ 25/12/2009 - 03h03 a dit:


That's just simplistic, stylish and beautiful. What is that basic black structure in which the leds are attached? A straw, metal pipe or what?



Thank you.  The black structure is actually a solid, slim metal bar from a camping fork I had found at a hardware store which I bent into shape using a dimension template.  The black is all shrink tubing.  There's an insulating layer that I put directly over the metal (dummyproofing against shorts).  The rest of the shrink tubing holds the wiring and LEDs in place securely.

The tough part of the build was attaching the middle LED.  I dremelled out about half the thickness of the bar, then used a 2-part epoxy to hold the LED in place.  Just built and sent one to my brother for Xmas with the same build.  Glad you liked it.
Falcon #118 31/12/2009 - 14h46

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benmeijer @ 30/12/2009 - 00h29 a dit:


Nice build Falcon, did you include your "variable brightness upgrade" in your build ?



In the end not, I forgot to buy the connectors. In serial setup its quite easy to change it later so i went with the 51Ohm and found out i don't need brighter settings for modded webcam.

BTW: Finaly i got the VX-1000 - works great.
Edited by Falcon on 31/12/2009 at 14h49.
Floydie #119 08/01/2010 - 08h28

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Easy and clean solution with Lego brick, USB powered, construction time 1hr.
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warzone_666 #120 14/01/2010 - 00h18

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This is my constuction :)
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I'm use helmet for a snowboard, 1 switch, 4 unknown LEDs, Headplay, 5.1 headphones "Razer", AC adaptor 7V  and 3 metres of a cable. My webcam is A4Tech PK-760E work perfectly! :D

Sorry for my English! :gene:
Edited by warzone_666 on 14/01/2010 at 00h19.

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