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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Easy build setup with SFH485P

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RSS >  Easy build setup with SFH485P, Anyone can build this !   (for 5v Usb serial build see Page 2)
wim36 #61 25/01/2010 - 23h25

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Hi,
I'm new to freetrack and I gonna try to build my own.
I ordered :
3 IR-leds SFH485P
http://www.conrad.be/goto.php?artikel=153831
3 10ohm resistors
http://www.conrad.be/goto.php?artikel=400017

and I have a usb-cable with adapter.
It's for the setup from "benmeijer".
are these the right resistors?
And I forgot the PTC-fuse,do I need it?
I know nothing about electrics and find it very confusing.  :blink:
So please help!
Thanks!
Edited by wim36 on 26/01/2010 at 00h00.
benmeijer #62 26/01/2010 - 00h12

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Hello Wim,

you don't have to use a ptc fuse to get the serial setup to work. It's there to protect your power source (usb-motherboard for example ) in case you made an error in your building and short-circuiting some wires.

You're using an adaptor (USB 5V), so don't worry about it. In my own build I don't use one. (because I use an adaptor).

You only need 1 resistor of 10 ohm in a serial build.

and ... this topic is for all of us who don't know much about electrics. (WYSIWYG  :D )


edit: for resistor use 1/2 watt ... like this one http://www.conrad.be/goto.php?artikel=405019
edit2: afer reading explanation of Nadrealista and checking this ledcalculator http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz you can use a smaller resistor  1/4 watt http://www.conrad.be/goto.php?artikel=403016
Edited by benmeijer on 26/01/2010 at 21h45.
wim36 #63 26/01/2010 - 01h28

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Thanks for the quick reply!
The resistors I bought aren't good?
nadrealista #64 26/01/2010 - 07h35

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Wim36,
in your case you can use both kinds. On resistor you should have:
U=5-3*1.5V=0.5V, I=0.050A. So, P=U*I=0.025W.

Yours are rated for 100mW, 4x times more.
The other ones are rated for 500mW.

In other words, if current get (say) 8x of nominal (from 50mA to 400mA) resistor should be one to die first :)
wim36 #65 26/01/2010 - 10h02

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ok,thanks!
Freaky #66 26/01/2010 - 15h51

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Hi benmeijer

Thanks for the reply, I have built 2 3 point models now using the Serial configuration, one slightly smaller than the 1st, both working great with the Wii remote.

Just wanted to say thanks for answering here
wim36 #67 29/01/2010 - 11h12

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Hi, Yesterday I made my first 3 point clip and it works fine!! :D
thanks for the help again!
It just won't work in wop  :(
Freaky #68 29/01/2010 - 11h17

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Hi Wim,

which OS are you using?

If its Vista or Win 7 disable UAC in the control panel, this will allow free track to see WOP and setup a profile for it.
wim36 #69 29/01/2010 - 14h27

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It's vista 64 bit, I gonna try that,thanks

No,it don't work :(
Edited by wim36 on 30/01/2010 at 04h49.
Harly #70 17/02/2010 - 21h48

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Ok, maybe this sounds like a stupid question, but IR LEDs emmits invisible light, right?
'Cause I've been trying to make a simple 1 LED circuit to light, and I've been unsuccesful, and then it stroke me... Errrm, the human eye can't pick up IR light...
Been so frustrated that I'm putting it on ice till tomorrow, also screwed up my webcam, so hopefully it will be better when I look at it from a fresh perspective :/
Harly #71 17/02/2010 - 22h14

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Hah, got it working after all. Just had to try once more, just to see if i wouldn't be able to get it right.

Let that be a warning to you all. You won't be able to see if the LEDs work until you get it in front of the camera :)

It most be said as a side note that I'm a TOTAL noob at this, hasn't fiddled with a solding iron for almost 15 years.
Edited by Harly on 17/02/2010 at 22h17.
nadrealista #72 18/02/2010 - 07h08

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Harly @ 17/02/2010 - 23h14 a dit:

Let that be a warning to you all. You won't be able to see if the LEDs work until you get it in front of the camera :)



Just one tip...
Camera on mobile phones do not have IR filter. So, you can check IR LED with it. Useful if you have doubts if remote controller works :)
zoog #73 18/02/2010 - 21h55

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Two quick questions:

* I just build this setup, but they only had the SFH485-2 in my local shop, I hope that one is also ok and wide angle? I checked the data sheet but couldn't figure out if the small leg was still for the red wires or not. I didn't turn it on yet (bed time and see next question, so I can still change the + and - if it's incorrect).

* I'm planning on using rechargeable batteries so I used 18 ohm resistors. Right now I can't find my charger, is it possible to test the setup with normal batteries?

Oh, and thanks for the tutorial of course  :D
benmeijer #74 18/02/2010 - 23h01

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In the datasheet for the SFH485-2 you'll find: "anode marking: short lead"

anode = + , so that's the same as the SFH485P.

Your led is not wide angle (half angle = 20 deg.), try if it will work or flatten the led.

If you're setup has 18 ohm resistors and you will use 3 v, the current is 90 mA and < 100mA (max.). Your led's won't burn. but maybe it's to bright.
zoog #75 19/02/2010 - 07h02

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Thanks for the extra info! Too bad they aren't wide angle, but it's still a prototype version just to see how to build etc. So if this thing works good (with or without flatted LEDs) I'll probably build a new one which will be a bit more fancy and with a stronger frame.

Will try out tonight after work!
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