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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Wanting to install PS 3 eye + SFH485P IR-LED's (3 DOF)

RSS >  Wanting to install PS 3 eye + SFH485P IR-LED's (3 DOF), What is your opinion on this?
Blackbird #31 06/07/2012 - 11h14

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The assambly has been made and it works!!!  :D
Still have to permanantly sow the LED's and wires to the hat, but got I
got it taped to the hat for the moment.
At the moment I got the PS3 cam working and I put a flopy disk in front of it
and now I still have to give in the ideal grain, exposere, color.... add a new profile and so on.  :)

But it's a start!  :D  I'll be looking at the forum for some help with the setup of the software by searching on the forum, but now luck so far... :)

This is the result
Posted Image

Cheers!
Edited by Blackbird on 06/07/2012 at 11h58.
Blackbird #32 06/07/2012 - 12h39

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Weird... I now am trying out the photographic film from a new filmroll I found.
But when I put it over the PS3 cam everything dissapears including the light of the IR-LED's...Which is pretty logic since it doesn't look transparant... What am I doing whrong? Should I rather continue with the flopy disk? Grtz
Blackbird #33 06/07/2012 - 13h04

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I think I'm getting a too low intensity from the LED's because of the IR filter in the PS3 cam... I always get to much background and I'm unable to filter it out...

What are the recommended values for the camera properties to start with?

Cheers!
Blackbird #34 06/07/2012 - 17h54

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At the moment, I opened the cam and I'm trying to remove the filter, or what I hope to be the filter....
Can't seem to extract that piece of glass...It's very hard to get it out.
I'm guessing I'm having the newer PS3 eye cam  :(
Any suggestions?
Grtz
Blackbird #35 06/07/2012 - 18h06

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According to this site:
http://www.peauproductions.com/blog/2009/04/17/the-two-types-of-ps3-eye-stock-lenses-pictures-of-each/
I just destroyed my lens and not the IR filter...
So camera is useluss now  :(
Could have just bought the TrackIR if I have to buy a new one... :(
Edited by Blackbird on 06/07/2012 at 18h09.
Gian92 #36 06/07/2012 - 19h12

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Get this. It's an objective lens with the PS3 Eye mount standard and optimised for the infrared radiation. Also, it's varifocal and with adjustable focal length.

A drawback is that you need adjust (drill or enlarge with another method) the holes in the new objective to install it in the cam. However, it's a 1-minute work, but be careful.

I highly recommend the seller: reliable and kind.
Ordem e progresso” - Brazilian flag
Gian92 #37 06/07/2012 - 19h27

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Forgot to mention, you also need the mount: either this or this.

The model depends on the space between the holes (from centre to centre) in the camera: measure them to get the mount with the right spacing; so, no need to make any modification, in theory.

Post the measurement before making any decision, but I think it's 18 mm.

When I bought it there wasn't such a choice  ;)
Edited by Gian92 on 06/07/2012 at 19h35.
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Steph #38 06/07/2012 - 19h35

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Blackbird @ 06/07/2012 - 11h39 a dit:

Weird... I now am trying out the photographic film from a new filmroll I found.
But when I put it over the PS3 cam everything dissapears including the light of the IR-LED's...Which is pretty logic since it doesn't look transparent...



Not at all. A daylight-filter, or in this case a IR-pass filter, (because this is what we are looking for), isn't transparent. It's black.

Unexposed, developed slide film can be used as an IR filter!

Try to look for other filter material.
Blackbird #39 07/07/2012 - 13h41

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The lens alone costs allready 20 euro and then I'll have to adjust some things, so I think I rather buy a new one for 40 euro  :)

What I also found is that my output was almost 7,5V instead of the 5V...
But with the flopy disk as filter, the LED's aren't bright enough if you sit to far from the webcam (approximatly 70 cm) and it has difficulty with tracking. So I was thinking about using the 6,8 Ohm resistor instead of the 10 Ohm resistor that is in the circuit at the moment.

But off course I can't go over the 1,5V for each LED.
So calculations:
Target is 0,1 A ==> 0,1 A * 6,8 Ohm = 0,68 V
7,5 V - 0,68 V = 6,82 V
6,82 V / 3 = 2,3 V for each LED which is too much....

So I need to find another IR-filter which lets through more of the IR light?

Grtz
Blackbird #40 07/07/2012 - 13h50

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At the moment my construction has an output of 7,5V and the resistor is 10Ohm.
So according to my calculations:
0,1 A * 10 Ohm = 1V
7,5V - 1V = 6,5V
6,5V / 3 = 2,17V for each LED which is too much allready than?  :pigekedal:

Any suggestions than for getting a better intensity?
I think I should add another 10 Ohm giving this result:
0,1 A * 20 Ohm ( because of two 10 Ohm resistors in serie) = 2V
7,5V -2V = 5,5V
5,5V / 3 = 1,83 which is good enough correct?

Are these calculations correct?
Cheers!
dewey1 #41 07/07/2012 - 14h18

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Blackbird @ 07/07/2012 - 13h41 a dit:

What I also found is that my output was almost 7,5V instead of the 5V...
So I was thinking about using the 6,8 Ohm resistor instead of the 10 Ohm resistor But off course I can't go over the 1,5V for each LED.
So calculations:
Target is 0,1 A ==> 0,1 A * 6,8 Ohm = 0,68 V
7,5 V - 0,68 V = 6,82 V
6,82 V / 3 = 2,3 V for each LED which is too much....



7.5v-3(1.5)=3v drop.
R=3/.1=30 Ohm

For 50mA current: 60 Ohm (56)
For 75mA current: 45 Ohm  (47)
For 100mA current: 30 Ohm (33)

Now had you used the 10 Ohm. 3/10=300 mA.
You would have exceeded the maximum current of 100 mA.

75 mA is plenty of forward current. You do not need to run at maximum current.
Blackbird #42 07/07/2012 - 14h34

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dewey1 @ 07/07/2012 - 14h18 a dit:

Blackbird @ 07/07/2012 - 13h41 a dit:

What I also found is that my output was almost 7,5V instead of the 5V...
So I was thinking about using the 6,8 Ohm resistor instead of the 10 Ohm resistor But off course I can't go over the 1,5V for each LED.
So calculations:
Target is 0,1 A ==> 0,1 A * 6,8 Ohm = 0,68 V
7,5 V - 0,68 V = 6,82 V
6,82 V / 3 = 2,3 V for each LED which is too much....



7.5v-3(1.5)=3v drop.
R=3/.1=30 Ohm

For 50mA current: 60 Ohm (56)
For 75mA current: 45 Ohm  (47)
For 100mA current: 30 Ohm (33)

Now had you used the 10 Ohm. 3/10=300 mA.
You would have exceeded the maximum current of 100 mA.

75 mA is plenty of forward current. You do not need to run at maximum current.



Thanks for your reply, but I'll try to keep the maximum current in the circuit. It doesn't really matter to me because it's connected to the powergrid. So I'll add 2 more 10 Ohm resistors to the 1* 10 Ohm resistor allready in place at the moment.

Having run the LED over their maximum capacity, does this have a negative influence? Just wondering if they are damaged? Doesn't matter if the lifetime of the LED's is shortened by a bit, because than they would live still long enough  :)

Grtz
dewey1 #43 07/07/2012 - 15h45

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I do not understand why almost everyone on this forum has to or wants to run the IR LEDs at maximum rated currents. (other than the "more is better" theory)

I use 20 mA of current from a USB port to supply the IR LED clip that I use.
This is in my living room that is 25% windows on the South and West sides.
Not in some remote dark cave. :)
If I had to go higher, 50% to 75% of maximum would be highest.

I understand that some people may have a need for higher currents but they automatically think that the maximum current is the best solution. For those that think that, they do not realize that there are other outlying problems with their tracker setup. Mostly do to either a IR blocking filter or improper software setup for the camera being used.
Gian92 #44 08/07/2012 - 10h55

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Blackbird @ 07/07/2012 - 13h41 a dit:

The lens alone costs allready 20 euro and then I'll have to adjust some things, so I think I rather buy a new one for 40 euro  :)



For half the price you would get a camera optimised for the infrared spectrum, and you would have to adjust nothing.

That's just an advice, you can throw it away, of course.
Ordem e progresso” - Brazilian flag
Gian92 #45 08/07/2012 - 10h59

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dewey1 @ 07/07/2012 - 15h45 a dit:

Mostly do to either a IR blocking filter or improper software setup for the camera being used.



+1
Ordem e progresso” - Brazilian flag

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