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ElectricNoodle #1 26/04/2008 - 19h02

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First can I say what a great program Free Track seems to be.. well if I can build my circuit right anyway :P,


I have ordered 3 IR LEDs form here : http://www.t2retail.co.uk/productDetail.asp?product=2760143

I have no electrical experience.. well some but have never actually attempted to make a circuit.

Which would be the best batteries to run these leds on? 2 AA 1AA  2AAA 1AAA
will it damage them if i use the incorrect ones?

Also what size resistor should I use for making this? And is it ok to wire the leds in series with the resistor at the end before the switch?

Thanks for any help you can give!
lilpunk1302 #2 27/04/2008 - 07h08

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It's ok to be a beginner, at least you're a smart one, you included everything we need to help you :)

Anyways.

It really doesn't matter what batteries you use, as long as you get the proper resistor. The only difference between AA and AAA is the size and total amount of energy available. If you're planning on making a headmount, 2AAA's would be good, AA's will last longer, but LED's'll take FOREVER to kill a pair of AAA's.

When you recieve your LED's, they'll come with a datasheet.
Go Here

And set the dials as follows.
3 LEDS Clip or Cap
Voltage value (V) |  3 (2 batteries, AA or AAA)
Power supply family | Batteries(Obvious)
Forward Voltage (V) | (Read the datasheet, the site doesn't tell)
Forward Current (mA) | (Again, read datasheet)

Once you input those, it'll give you a big chart with a lot of unnecessary info for a beginnner,

Here's what you need:

(Whoops, calculator refuses to work right now, but if memory serves me right, you need the value that says Resistor value.)

Also watch out if it says Series or Parallel, if it says Series, you'll only need one resistor, if it says Par, then you'll need 3(one for each LED) You can use basic 9th grade Science to condense that down to one.(when I was building mine, we were just finishing up our Electricity unit :) )you can convert it to the resistance for series. PM me if you want to take that route.

Anyways, yeah, so Batteries, use either AA or AAA, it doesn't matter.

Use the calculator on the site to figure out your resistor, if you don;t use one, the LED'sll burn out, a good sign that they're overheating is that Red LED's are burning orange.
ElectricNoodle #3 27/04/2008 - 19h10

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ok so after reading a few other topics on this forum i ordered myself a 9v battery snap connector thing, a switch, 5 150ohm resistors and a soldering kit that includes a stand flux tweezers and an angled head. Wil 150 ohm resistors be ok ? in the post I rerad the guy used a 9V battery in series with his IR LEDs which are the same size as mine

Also I just realised in Free Track my webcam is showing a s A logitech Quick Cam express and is only throwing out 15fps :( how do i find out the exact model to know if its compatible?

If its not compatible will this cam do :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-0M-Pix-Webcam-Camera-8-Leds-Web-cam-Mic-MSN-Skype-UK_W0QQitemZ320244781330QQihZ011QQcategoryZ4616QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Edited by ElectricNoodle on 27/04/2008 at 20h22.
lilpunk1302 #4 28/04/2008 - 01h32

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Not sure about the camera, but you're set with resistors, start with all 5 in series, test, if it's too dark remove one. You know you've hit the mark when it glows bright but doesn't look orange in any way.
ElectricNoodle #5 28/04/2008 - 05h52

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Ok thanks alot for response, I will go ahead with making the 3 point cap when I recieve the parts, then I will know if the webcam will work or not, if it doesnt then I will then order another one, afterall this still works out alot cheaper than the TrackIR I was gonna buy :P
ElectricNoodle #6 29/04/2008 - 21h09

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Well I  recieved my parts today and went ahead and constructed my three point tracking system. Although I have a major problem.. using the calculator on this site it works out that i need a 53.4 ohm resistor.. i only ordered 5 x 150 ohm  now i wired up the circuit anyway and put in one 150. when i switch it on nothing happens whatsoever.. is this because the resistor is way to high? the leds dont switch on at all... now I ve thought about this and if i wire the 150 ohm resistor in parallel with another 150 ohm resistor it will give me a resistance of 75 ohms yes? If i do this should the leds at least switch on? thanks for any help you can give!

Electric

LOL my bad.. my IR LEDs dont's show up because there IR... duh  well should they be lit? I managed to get the one point tracking working flawlessly, my leds have a view angle of 45 is that ok? or do i need to sand? also will using a resistor smaller than 150 ohm make the tracker more effective?

thanks
Edited by ElectricNoodle on 29/04/2008 at 21h50.
didja #7 29/04/2008 - 22h09

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If you wire the 2 resistors in parallel, it will give you a resistance of 75 ohm, you're right ;) !

And according to the calculator, it's gonna be better like that ;) ^^

Anyway, if you want to check if your leds works, look at them through your webcam. :)

Rémy ;)
Posted Image
lilpunk1302 #8 30/04/2008 - 00h20

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Back when I still used IR on my old rig(I use plain red LED's now)

the LED's actually glowed a little red, not very bright though.

Just look at them through your camera :)
ElectricNoodle #9 30/04/2008 - 05h56

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so just so i dont do this wrong.. i wire the second resistor across the two points at each end of the resistor I ve already soldered?

I was testing last night and managed to get 1 point tracking working ok with 30fps but Im going to redesign my frame to make it more accurate as I kindve threw it together in a hurry to get this thing buit :P

Thanks
lilpunk1302 #10 30/04/2008 - 06h02

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Meh, sry to site owner for image hotlinking, but it's late and I don;t feel like reuploading.

Posted Image

make it look sorta like that with the 2 r's, but instead of the third in series, just use wire :)

Note that resistors don;t have a Pos/Neg end.
ElectricNoodle #11 30/04/2008 - 18h08

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Is there a full scale guide to building the 3 point tracking bracket? i think mine seems to be wrong as it makes the skull go crazy no matter what

LOL scrap all of the above :P i now have a fully functioning 3 point head tracking system :PPP thank you for your help! and also to freetrack makers for such a great progrsmme for free!

Although  I dont know if its just me but if noticed  that when turming the view to the left or right in il2 FB it seems to jitter.. my leds have a 45 deg 0.5 value is this too small? or should i sand them down slightly?
Edited by ElectricNoodle on 30/04/2008 at 21h30.
Deimos #12 30/04/2008 - 21h54

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Just open up the FT control panel and start turning your head around to the point where you usually experience tracking quality loss. If you notice that the the points sometimes disappear from the preview and visible points indicator (in the lower right side of FT window) changes its value, you'll need to sand them down or at least scratch their surface with sandpaper so that they become matte instead of glossy.
But it might as well be the fault of having FT seeing too many points due to some glossy parts in your setup - i once had a problem where light reflected off steel parts holding my LEDs in place causing FT to see an additional point. That can also make head movement jittery.
lilpunk1302 #13 01/05/2008 - 22h59

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Also, if you;re using a clip, make sure the LED's arn't leaving your camera's view, this happens with my middle one, a solution is to move the rig forward on your head.

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