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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Questions about LED and models.

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RSS >  Questions about LED and models., please help for a greenie..
pruskis #1 29/09/2011 - 23h36

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Hello, after finding this awesome piece of software I decided to build my own tracking system, even with a really poor knowledge in electronics, I managed to build my own 3 points clip model. I used these ( http://pdf1.alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html http://pdf1.alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html ) Infrared diodes and it doesn't seem that they work properly. Catching the light using webcam it disappear when i turn my head a bit. They are powered from USB port. Is it an issue with LEDs or I did something wrong building model? I LEDs aren't good for it, I guess i'll have to wait 5 days and get these which are suggested in freetrack web ( http://www.lemona.lt/index.php?page=item&i_id=c4eb8c9374f87df81250ff20fe11ca0a ). By the way, I am using QuickCam Communicate STX, I can't really find that filter, it is possible that it doesn't exist on that web cam? And so if it does or doesn't, do i still need to sacrifice my floppy disk and film in front of my camera?

And the last question is, which model is best 3 points clip or 3 point cap?
Blindasabat #2 30/09/2011 - 12h05

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Hi,

I'm not an electronic expert too, so be careful with my advise (not to fry your computer and all).
Have you tried to adjust settings from your webcam? Maybe it is just a setting that needs to be changed.

It's also possible that these Kingbright LEDs need a higher current than the Osram's, they can be made brighter by choosing a resistor with less resistance. From the USB you get 5V, it should be enough to power the LEDs in serial circuit, if not you could try to switch to a parallel circuit, but then you will need a resistor for every LED.

For the last. Clip or cap? That depends. Personally I don't play with a headset so I prefer my battery powered cap, total freedom. If you are going to use a headset, a clip with USB power will be more practical I think, unless your headset is wireless.
dewey1 #3 30/09/2011 - 19h41

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Just use the Osram IR LEDs.
You will be much happier about the results.

Use a series wired LED setup with a resistor of 10 Ohms. This will give you 50mA of current which is what the absolute maximum on those Kingbright LEDS you now have.

Most IR filters are located internally on the lense. Do a search on the filter removal.
It should be similar to this:

http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/filter_removal/logitech_webcam_c200.php

http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=466&page=2

http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=820&hl=quickcam-stxhttp://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=820&hl=quickcam-stx
Edited by dewey1 on 30/09/2011 at 20h06.
albx #4 30/09/2011 - 20h58

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Tested both the Osram and this http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5mm-ir-led-emitters-20-pack-2399

and found the cheap dealextreme leds, filed, much more better, high luminosity and same degree of view.
dewey1 #5 30/09/2011 - 21h28

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albx @ 30/09/2011 - 20h58 a dit:

Tested both the Osram and this http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5mm-ir-led-emitters-20-pack-2399

and found the cheap dealextreme leds, filed, much more better, high luminosity and same degree of view.



Without any datasheet on those LEDs and what current/voltage you are using to make the comparison, it is pretty hard to really compare them.

What currents were you applying to each?

You never want to run any LEDs at maximum current continously!
It just shortens the life expectancy.

There are a lot of wannabe Technicians/Engineers that make bold statements without really knowing the actual outcomes.
albx #6 01/10/2011 - 07h24

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dewey1 @ 30/09/2011 - 21h28 a dit:

albx @ 30/09/2011 - 20h58 a dit:

Tested both the Osram and this http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5mm-ir-led-emitters-20-pack-2399

and found the cheap dealextreme leds, filed, much more better, high luminosity and same degree of view.



Without any datasheet on those LEDs and what current/voltage you are using to make the comparison, it is pretty hard to really compare them.

What currents were you applying to each?

You never want to run any LEDs at maximum current continously!
It just shortens the life expectancy.

There are a lot of wannabe Technicians/Engineers that make bold statements without really knowing the actual outcomes.



I use a resistor of 25ohm with a power source of 5v (usb) for each led in a parallel array.

tested by another user :

I Current tested 200 and they do vary, so you'll want to match them by current draw.
They run fine at 100ma but if glued to a curcuit board they'll run more.
1.5v = 30-40ma
1.6v = 45-57ma
1.7v = 65-82ma
1.8v = 90-115ma
1.9v = 112-140ma
2.0v = 136-170ma
2.1v = 152-190ma
2.2v = 169-212ma
2.3v = 188-235ma
2.4v = 200-260ma Max brightness for pulse operation

P.S.
take your comments for yourself, I'm not pretending to be a engineer and I don't make bold statements, I suggested, about my experience, better leds, if you don't like them you don't need to use them, but don't offend people ok?
Edited by albx on 01/10/2011 at 07h38.
dewey1 #7 01/10/2011 - 17h17

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"

albx @ 01/10/2011 - 07h24 a dit:

dewey1 @ 30/09/2011 - 21h28 a dit:

albx @ 30/09/2011 - 20h58 a dit:

Tested both the Osram and this http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5mm-ir-led-emitters-20-pack-2399

and found the cheap dealextreme leds, filed, much more better, high luminosity and same degree of view.



Without any datasheet on those LEDs and what current/voltage you are using to make the comparison, it is pretty hard to really compare them.

What currents were you applying to each?

You never want to run any LEDs at maximum current continously!
It just shortens the life expectancy.

There are a lot of wannabe Technicians/Engineers that make bold statements without really knowing the actual outcomes.



I use a resistor of 25ohm with a power source of 5v (usb) for each led in a parallel array.

P.S.
take your comments for yourself, I'm not pretending to be a engineer and I don't make bold statements, I suggested, about my experience, better leds, if you don't like them you don't need to use them, but don't offend people ok?



Rather defensive attitude for my generalized statement. Might be a lanquage barrier thing.
Not trying to offend you as you seem to think.

Without a datasheet for the brand X LEDs, I would have to believe that it is speculation on your part as to validity of the "tested" comparison.

I know for fact that there are even better IR LEDs than the SH485P, but a supporting data sheet will allow one to make such claims.

BTW; most statements done on forums are "personal comments" unless backed up with supporting evidence.
pruskis #8 01/10/2011 - 23h30

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LEDs are on  parallel circuit, no idea what resistors are those because when I as in the electronic shop, i just told give me these LEDs, I'll feed them by 5V, give me resistors for these.. Also I did played with setting, they seem to be fine now, thing is that when i twist my head camera looses the track of LEDs. My only guess is that IR LEDs doesn't has wide view angle (?) or without removing that filter from camera - same effect will apply to all LEDs. Because camera only detects them when they are perfectly lined with the camera itself. I am using headphones so 3points clip is my choice. Also, if I am getting Osram IR LEDs, what resistors do I need if I want to feed them from my USB port?
dewey1 #9 02/10/2011 - 00h29

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Read post number 3 above.
Supplied you with answers before your latest question!  :)
albx #10 02/10/2011 - 08h40

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pruskis @ 01/10/2011 - 23h30 a dit:

LEDs are on  parallel circuit, no idea what resistors are those because when I as in the electronic shop, i just told give me these LEDs, I'll feed them by 5V, give me resistors for these.. Also I did played with setting, they seem to be fine now, thing is that when i twist my head camera looses the track of LEDs. My only guess is that IR LEDs doesn't has wide view angle (?) or without removing that filter from camera - same effect will apply to all LEDs. Because camera only detects them when they are perfectly lined with the camera itself. I am using headphones so 3points clip is my choice. Also, if I am getting Osram IR LEDs, what resistors do I need if I want to feed them from my USB port?



you don't need the osram, try to file the head of your leds and make it flat
pruskis #11 02/10/2011 - 21h44

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hm... so I modded my camera, removed that red glass (actually broke it) and added that floppy disk filter in front of the camera. According to this video, it should work just fine ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-1YOyHPaEQ&feature=related ) but it doesn't work for me, don't seem that problem is with my settings ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VztnHNF5O-s )
Blindasabat #12 02/10/2011 - 22h06

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Looking at your video I think you need to focus the lens of your camera.
And try toying with the point size by increasing the amount of pixels of the max point diameter.
dewey1 #13 02/10/2011 - 22h13

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Did you refocus the camera for sharper dots?
Which LEDs are those?

I use I420, 352x288 resolution
pruskis #14 03/10/2011 - 02h40

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albx @ 02/10/2011 - 08h40 a dit:


you don't need the osram, try to file the head of your leds and make it flat



Removed like 1-2mm from each LED.

Tried to adjust lens, twisted it left and right..

Well, currently these marks in FreeTrack are quite big and are quite annoying.

In BF2 Project Reality mod it works but it's kinda not that effect what i was sure i'll get after constructing this thing.

For now plan is to keep improving current model, if it won't suite my wishes - after 3 days i'll try getting osram LEDs and making a 3 points cap with em.

dewey1 @ 02/10/2011 - 22h13 a dit:


Did you refocus the camera for sharper dots?
Which LEDs are those?



To which side should I spin that lens?

http://www.lemona.lt/index.php?page=item&i_id=c4eb8c9374f87df81250ff20fe11ca0a These LEDs, there's a PDF file if you look for more detail information.
dewey1 #15 03/10/2011 - 03h43

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I already know the specs for the SH485P.

My question is, are those the filed down originals in the video?
In your video it also appears that you still have a very narrow beam angle.

Does the focus have any effect on the spot size?

I think you will have better luck with the SH485P and no hastles filing and polishing.

Focus your camera and adjust your parameters and have fun.
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